Jacob Baskin bought a Brooklyn brownstone and wanted an induction range. His contractor told him the electrical panel couldn't handle it on top of his air conditioner and clothes dryer, and quoted $4,500 for a new, larger panel. Baskin "decided to skip it, a decision he still regrets eight years later," The Washington Post reported on Nov. 9, 2026. "I would have done it in a second," he told the paper, meaning if he could have installed the stove without the upgrade.
He could have. A year of his utility data showed his busiest 15-minute stretch used 1.19 kilowatt-hours. That works out to under 20 amps on a 100-amp panel, so he was using about a fifth of what he had.
So if you're wondering "do I need a panel upgrade" before buying an induction range, the answer is often no. Some homes really do need one, though, and the job can cost anywhere from about $1,300 to well over $10,000 depending on where you live and what's involved. This guide covers how to tell which group you're in and what to ask before you sign anything.
Why does my electrician say I need a bigger panel?
Usually it comes down to the math they use. According to the Post's reporting, the National Electrical Code allows two ways to calculate a home's electrical load:
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Label-based (the common method): add up the maximum power printed on every appliance's label, as if everything ran at full blast at once.
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Usage-based (less common): find the home's actual peak hour from real data, then require a panel that can handle 125% of that amount.
The Post found that usage-based calculations come out about 40% lower on average. California energy engineer Tom Kabat told the paper the code counts an induction range as adding 3.6 kilowatts, while the ranges actually use at most about half a kilowatt at a time. He said a heat pump water heater rated at 5 kW uses about 1 kW.
Greg Pfotenhauer, a consultant with Artemisia Energy who has worked with the data firm HomeIntel, told the Post the label method "ends up being wildly conservative and just wrong a lot of the time, because previously we didn't have the data." He added: "Now we have the data, but we're not leveraging it." Peninsula Clean Energy's Blake Herrschaft made a similar point to Canary Media: it's almost impossible, even if you try, to run every load in a house at the same time.
Your local rules matter too. The Post reports that only six states have adopted the latest version of the code, and Michigan still uses the 2014 version for homes. Which calculation your inspector accepts depends on where you live, so ask.
Can I run an induction range on a 100-amp panel?
In most homes, yes. This Old House says a standard induction range needs "a dedicated 220- or 240-volt circuit and 40 to 50 amps." That breaker size is not the same as what the range actually pulls while you cook, which is why a 100-amp panel often has room.
The Post cited a report from this year finding that 98% of homes with 100-amp panels have room to add popular electric appliances. A HomeIntel analysis of more than 22,000 Northern California homes found 86% used under 50 amps at their peak hour. Rewiring America, a nonprofit that pushes home electrification, says "most homes can fully electrify on an existing 100 Amp electrical panel with some simple planning upfront."
This matters for a lot of people. Per the Post, almost 1 in 3 U.S. homes (mostly older ones) have 100-amp panels, and almost half of New York homes have 100 amps or less, the highest share of any state. Just over half of homes nationwide have 200-amp panels.
Not every electrician agrees. Bill Hyman, a Maryland electrician whose company upgrades one or two panels a week, mostly in the D.C. suburbs, told the Post: "If they tell me they have central AC and an electric dryer, I know it's overloaded." He's seen lights flicker and circuits blow when someone plugs in a hair dryer, and he thinks the code is too lax: "minimums are not necessarily the right thing to do." If your house already shows those symptoms, take them seriously (more on that below).
What are the alternatives to a panel upgrade?
Ranked from cheapest to most expensive:

1. A usage-based load calculation
This costs little beyond the electrician's time. Download 12 months of interval data from your utility's website (many show use in 15-minute or hourly blocks) or install a home energy monitor, then ask the electrician to run the load calculation from real use instead of labels. Baskin's data alone would have answered his question.
2. A circuit-sharing device or smart splitter ($400-$700)
These let two big appliances share one 240-volt circuit without running at the same time. Rewiring America puts them at $400-$700 and names DryerBuddy, SplitVolt and NeoCharge. Canary Media explains the two types. Hard-wired ones like SimpleSwitch are installed by an electrician. Plug-in ones work like a power strip for 240-volt appliances. "If you're doing retrofits, these plug-in devices are pretty standard," Sean Armstrong of Redwood Energy told Canary. One caveat: you'd pair the range with something like a dryer or EV charger, and only one of them can run at a time.
3. A smart panel ($3,000-$5,000 plus installation)
Smart panels from companies like Span and Koben manage loads automatically. Rewiring America lists them at $3,000-$5,000 plus installation. That's about what a plain panel swap costs in many markets, so it makes the most sense if you're also adding a heat pump, EV charger or solar.
4. A 120-volt battery induction range
Some ranges have a built-in battery and plug into a regular outlet. According to Quit Carbon, which partners with these manufacturers, the options include the Copper Charlie and Electra 30-inch ranges and the Impulse cooktop. The Charlie and Electra need "a 120-volt outlet within 3 feet of the back of the range." Quit Carbon's sample pricing puts a battery appliance at $4,000-$7,000, compared with $2,500-$7,500 for a standard 240-volt range plus about $2,000 in electrical work. Treat those as the company's estimates.
The Post reports that Copper's stove cuts power demand from 50 amps to 6. Andrew Browning of Copper told the paper you can almost always fully electrify on a 100-amp panel, but you usually need one or two power-efficient choices.
How much does a panel upgrade cost?
The national benchmarks fall in a fairly narrow band:
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This Old House: $1,300-$3,000 for a 100-amp to 200-amp upgrade.
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Rewiring America: $2,000-$4,000 for a typical panel upgrade (source).
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Washington Post: a median of about $3,500, citing UC research, with some jobs costing three or four times that.
The big variable is whether you only need a new panel or a full service upgrade. If the utility has to upsize the line to your house, replace a transformer or move the meter, Rewiring America puts the cost at $5,000-$25,000, and more with underground lines. Redwood Energy told Canary Media service upgrades run $2,000 to $30,000 and can take two months to two years. Rewiring America notes that utility scheduling alone can take months in some areas.
For simpler jobs the wait is shorter. A Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory study presented at the ACEEE Summer Study in August 2026 surveyed 140 people in the industry across 34 states. It found most single-family projects finish within 30 days and that permit fees are usually a minor share of the total. Costs on the utility side varied widely.
Panel upgrade cost by region
Local quotes vary a lot. These figures come from individual contractors and guides, so use them as rough reference points, not price lists.
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Chicago: about $1,300-$2,000 installed for a 200-amp panel and $1,500-$2,500 for a 100-amp panel, according to local contractor Mr. Mighty Electric (Sept. 2025). Permits run $50-$300, and the city requires an inspection. For comparison, Midwest contractor Nate Adams quoted $3,000-$6,000 for a 100-to-200-amp upgrade to Canary Media back in 2022.
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Dallas-Fort Worth: The North Texas Home Guide, which compiles contractor price guides, estimates $1,800-$2,800 for a like-for-like panel swap and $2,500-$4,500 for a 100-to-200-amp service upgrade. It puts permits, inspections and utility coordination at $250-$650 combined.
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Northern Virginia: A.J. Long Electric quotes $3,500-$7,500 for a standard 100-to-200-amp upgrade, including permit, inspection and coordination with Dominion Energy (May 2026).
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Northeast and D.C. area: the Post's examples run higher. Baskin was quoted $4,500 in Brooklyn. Massachusetts condo owner Christopher Friend paid $6,000 after several electricians told him he needed a new panel. Hyman says his jobs in the D.C. suburbs usually cost $6,000-$13,000 per house.
Contractors name the same factors that push a quote up: underground rather than overhead service, a panel behind finished walls, aluminum branch wiring, historic-district review, meter relocation, and the utility disconnecting and reconnecting power.
What are the signs you need a new electrical panel?
Sometimes the upgrade is the right call no matter what your stove needs:

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Service under 100 amps. Rewiring America says panels rated below 100 amps (it gives 40 or 60 amps as examples) likely need an upgrade. Panels at 100-150 amps can usually be fully electrified with planning. Above 150 amps, you usually need neither.
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A fuse box. Inch Calculator says homes with fuse boxes should switch to a breaker panel and notes home inspectors may require it before a sale.
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Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels. A.J. Long Electric warns that Federal Pacific Stab-Lok breakers may "fail to trip during overloads" and that Zinsco/Sylvania breakers can "fuse to the aluminum bus bar." Look on the panel door or label for "FPE," "Stab-Lok," "Zinsco," "Sylvania" or "Magnetrip."
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A panel that's extremely old, damaged or unsafe. Rewiring America says these may need replacement.
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Trouble you can see now. Breakers that trip often, or lights that flicker when a big appliance kicks on, are the symptoms Hyman describes in overloaded houses. Have them checked before you add a new load.
Help paying for it
If you do need the upgrade, check for local programs. The Post reports that Washington, D.C., offers rebates of up to $2,000 for larger panels. Friend in Massachusetts spread his $6,000 cost over seven years with an interest-free state loan. Ask your utility and state energy office what's available before you sign.
Before you sign a panel upgrade quote
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Ask for the load calculation in writing, and ask which method it used: label-based or usage-based. If it's label-based, ask whether they'll redo it with your 12 months of utility data.
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Ask whether a cheaper fix works. Would a circuit-sharing device with the dryer, or a 120-volt battery range, avoid the panel?
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Find out what kind of job the quote covers. A panel swap and a full service upgrade (new meter, utility work) are very different jobs at very different prices.
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Confirm permits and inspection are included, along with who handles the utility disconnect and reconnect.
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Get two or three bids from licensed electricians. If one says you need an upgrade and another says a $500 device will do, ask each to show their math.
Related reading
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Remodeling Costs Are at a Decade High. Which Trades Raise Prices Next?
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Is This the Winter to Trade Your Oil Furnace for a Heat Pump?
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Portable Generator With Transfer Switch or Whole-House Standby?
Sources
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The Washington Post: People are paying thousands for a home upgrade that's often unnecessary (Nov. 9, 2026), read via the DNYUZ republication
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Canary Media: New tools and tech to prep your electrical panel for an all-electric home (Feb. 2022)
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Canary Media: Yes, it's possible to electrify a home on just 100 amps (Dec. 2023)
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Quit Carbon: Is a 120-volt battery-enabled induction stove a good fit for my home?
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Mr. Mighty Electric: Electrical Panel Replacement Cost in Chicago
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The North Texas Home Guide: Electrical panel upgrade cost DFW
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A.J. Long Electric: Electrical panel upgrade cost guide, Northern Virginia
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